[ot][spam][crazy] inhibition efforts: standing up
it takes me hours to reconnect to my body and stand up in the morning after sleeping. some years ago I searched for a device that would push me out of bed. somebody had made an "ejector bed" but they weren't selling it. I bought a cheap high-torque motor more recently. I don't know if it's strong enough to raise plywood with a person on it, but it seems to make sense to try. the motor also has a bracket to help with mounting, but more parts may be needed.
as I think about this, I remember such a motor could also be wired to a rope that pulls. this could even use a pulley system if it's weak.
I believe the motor is in a labeled container somewhere in the room with the broken coreboot computer.
the box is labeled "powerful motor" and right now is under a box labeled plastic bags", about 6 feet from the inner side wall and 2 feet from the back outer wall
a bracket is already attached there is space to extend the shaft. this is not set up. there are also two small dc motors in the box. the bracket can mount the body of the motor, and affix a plane normal to the motor shaft if 4 hours are drilled in the plane so a right-angle bracket might work but would put a lot of stress on the motor. the motor could use a power adapter: it has two thin bare wires. i'd like to find the model of the motor to get shaft measurements.
I think it is a bringsmart 5840-3650 , possibly with an 8mm shaft and 70kgcm torque https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07F8Y36PD i'm thinking 70kgcm still implies i'll need a gear or pulley to make it effective, although I could tie a rope to my ankle and see if it would drag me. it would need a spool to collect the rope on. turns out 70kg is 154 lbs, which is about my weight, so if the spool were under a centimeter radius then it could lift me off the ground directly if tied to the head. I guess that's the plan!
a spool is basically two flat discs with a dowel between. the skinnier and longer the dowel, the more force it will pull with, as the radius reduces. ideally the other end of the dowel is held by something, to reduce stress on the motor structure
it makes sense to get a long skinny shaft since I have this mounting thing, but since i'm doing this right now, i'm thinking of other solutions. I could glue or otherwise affix a dowel to something flat, possibly. I could buy a dowel from a hardware store. I could use a pencil. I could use a metal rod: this seems it would work better. Like, a coathanger may work. I could possibly use the bolts to affix a bent coathanger to the bracket, and lash the shaft to the bolts to keep it in place. Winding a cable might tighten the lashing. This seems unlikely to work given how my hands spasm and shake, but it's an idea and may work.
my mother did jewelry and my father did soldering. I learned to use needle nose pliers at a young age. however, my neurological issues result in my hands forming weird contortions when I try to move the fingers independently here, and I keep dropping the pliers. the mounting screws don't have nuts, so i'm trying putting a coat hanger straight through the screw holes the expected problem is that the flismy coat hanger wire bends when loaded. I can likely cut it to remove it. I plan to try anyway.
i've bent a coathanger to connect to one of the brackets! the way my hand contort, opposing muscle groups contract simultaneously, and it leaves them sore. I imagine the muscle groups get strong but it doesn't help much unless I can separate their behaviors somehow. the bracket I connected it to is not on the motor. I can replace using the set screw. i'm thinking on what fixed object I could mount the motor to. maybe I can lash it to a doorknob or something, maybe in a way that prevents it from flying around when activated. I have some cord outdoors.
i've affixed the coathanger to the shaft. while i'm in this room, i'll look to see what options I have for wiring power to the motor. i'm using 12v SAE plugs which can often be found at auto parts stores.
i've found a load-side sae cable. the wire gauge is way too thick for the motor current but it will work. I also found fancy-shmancy wire strippers. i'm thinking i'll connect it with wire screws to start, or event just tape the wires together. I also have a soldering iron here. i'll put the items near the motor to help me find them, and either lengthen the exposed copper or look for wire screws. wire screws are presently usually in my "electric parts" box, which might be in the truck right now I think. but I have some kicking around here. a wire screw is a small bit of metal spring and plastic housing that screws over two wire ends to connect them in a temporary manner.
i've bared the wires and found my little bag of indoor wire screws when something is hard to find one of the thinds I do is to turn on my cell phone flash to help my eyes kick in more, even though it's daytime, and just check out all the areas with it another I thing I do is visit areas that feel associated with the thing i'm looking for, and check them out, to help my mind kick in
I've plugged it into a power supply and it rotates the coathanger :D The gears make a retro whirring noise. I can hear something slightly slipping inside it. I infer that's normal since I've never loaded it yet.
I got enough cord to try it out and ended up returning indoors :/ the missing part is a button. in case it works. if it doesn't, all I need is a good spool affixed to it. switches are tempting but could result in me being physically wound around a spool. so, buttons are preferred here. I can also simply unite two exposed wires to turn it on. it's helpful to have very long wires. I may also have power relays somewhere if thinner wire is helpful.
I found more cord. i'm thinking the nyansat "electronics fun" kit would have a button, but i'm not finding it. makes sense to focus on wires. maybe a broken appliance or something? I have some heavy gauge ac power solide core wire somebody discarded outdoors. I could destrand it but i'd need to insulate the length.
to separate the data lines of the serial cable i'll want a blade to manually strip the outer insulation. I have a box cutting knife nearby. it's also nice to have diagonal cutters for cutting wires. i'll find those too.
i've peeled the outer insulation off the serial cable. I had labeled it with duct tape that it was broken. I had freed it enough to peel by just pulling, and when I got to the duct tape the insulation broke instead of the duct tape ripping. it's interesting this duct tape was stronger than this thick insulation. inside, the wires for each pin are wrapped in a braided ground wire.
There are four insulated wires in here, red, black, white, and green. The white and green wires are corded around each other, maybe 2 wraps per inch. There are 3 exposed grounding and shielding wires, a braid, a length of foil, and an uninsulated wire. They're all about 7 feet long.
i've twisted the lengths together into two wire-like lengths each hopefully about 24 feet long. I put the bare lengths all on one group so it could be connected to ground. it was hard to get the foil and braid to stay end-to-end, so I added a fisherman's knot, which is just an overhand knot on each one around the other, pulled tight. I cut the black wire, since there was an odd number of lengths, and put half on each.
these wires are thinner gauge than the power wires for the motor, so ideally i'd use a switching component to make them control it. i'll try looking for one in this room a little.
I found a bag of small buttons and a box of 4 relays (2 per board) each specd for 5VDC. this is 12V, so I'll want 3 of those relays in series.
The relay boards are marked "2 Relay Module" "2PH63091A" . Each relay has 3 screws labeled "NO" "COM" "NC" and 4 header pins. The header pins are labelled "JD-VCC" "VCC" "GND" / "GND" "IN1" "IN2" "VCC" . One of the boards has a removable jumper bridging JD-VCC and VCC.
I've put the relays and buttons with the motor to help me find them again. I'll try to look them up and make a plan for wiring them.
I think this relay board is https://web.archive.org/web/20180511044152/http://modtronix.com:80/mod-rly2-...
It turns out each relay shares the same power supply, so the best I can divide them from 12V would be 6V. It might work. It's unfortunate.
Looking at the specification, it looks like the relays are designed for signal isolation, and the 5V is provided as the control voltage, not the actual load voltage. https://web.archive.org/web/20181125095912/http://modtronix.com/prod/mod/mod... It would actually be workable to put 3 in series. I'm not sure how to tell if it's needed. I guess I'd look up the relays themselves. I'm suspecting a single one might handle 12V given how big they are.
as I get near completion, my muscles start contracting harder on their own, making it hard to continue. I also keep experiencing sudden experiences of considering doing something else.
basically, all the VCCs are 5Vs. When IN* is connected to GND, the relays switch load pin2 between load pins 1 and 3. I'll need a 5v supply, so an IDE power plug would make more sense than a 12V SAE plug.
it looks like with IDE, it's female plastic housing that's device side, and male plastic housing that's supply side. this is a device, so I want female plastic housing.
it looks like red is 5v and yellow is 12v. I have a 5v device without a yellow cable.
I've cut female square jumper wire and connected the 3 5V points to an IDE power plug. Next: ground.
I've wired ground and powered it. It clicks harshly (higher frequency from hobby relays I'm used to) when the signal is grounded.
I'm not sure if I detect a smell coming from it when the signal is grounded. I wonder if I should have a resistor in there.
I've removed 5V from the input signal VCC, seems to work the same without. I don't remember the schematic but thought there could be a small chance I was shorting it when grounding the input signal. I'm wiring it to the motor, and i've misplaced the black electrical tape I'm using for when bare wire is exposed. I'm looking for it.
One thing I often consider when I suddenly cant find things is feeling around with my hands. I have an issue where looking for something can often prevent me from seeing it. It's pretty nonintuitive and also get inhibited, the feeling around, so this only helps occasionally because it's very hard to get myself to do.
With me not having many IDE cables, it's frustrating figuring out how to power and mount it at the same time. I'm spending some time considering this.
I moved things around and lashed it in place, although I made errors lashing. There's some "boy scout" way of lashing that uses "wraps" and "fraps" =wraps/2 that i've learned. I did it wrong, but it works enough. I tried turning it on and it worked for a bit, but I didn't notice some of the lashing ends got caught around the shaft and now it's all stuck. I forgot to make a way to make it reverse! I bet the other relay could do this.
The current wiring has GND->COM1, NO1->MOTOR-, MOTOR+->12V. To make it go backward, I would connect MOTOR+->GND and MOTOR-->12V . I have 2 relays with 3 pins each. Each relay can reswitch one thing to one of two other things when switched. The currently relay has ground, so I could make it wire ground to MOTOR+ when the other way. Then the other relay would have 12V, and could wire it to either MOTOR+ or MOTOR- . But, in that arrangement there would be no way to turn the motor off. Maybe it makes more sense to undo the wires and move them by hand. I'm thinking that I will need to do this again, though. But, it's easier to be physically near the motor when sending it in reverse.
This is a tough puzzle for me nowadays. I'd enumerate the paths of connection and judge if this is reasonable to do with 2 relays. Motor => Forward wiring Motor => Backward wiring The two wirings can't share an unswitched connection to the motor, as this would cause a short. So, to do this, four current paths need to be involved in switching. If any current path is unswitched, there is a way for it to short when something else is switched. I think! Then, if it is two relays that guide it, is there a way to turn it off? Couldn't you set them to opposite values? Or not? What if you turned the relays around? So the common pin went to the motor, and each pin was switched to positive or negative. Then you'd switch on the direction you want it to go, and it would go that way! When both switches were equal, it would not move.
I think things are set up so I can actually do that rewiring while the motor is still lashed. I guess I'm going to have breakfast now, though.
When I wired the 12v to the second relay, something shorted in an unsourced burst of smoke. I shouldn't have wired it while powered. Then I could have tested the wiring. I'm not sure why this happened, given the signal for the second relay is not grounded. I wonder if I simply knocked something I hadn't insulated yet.
I should check voltage levels and functionality around the power system to see what broke.
while the relays are running, the 5v that powers them stays steady. i'm guessing I shorted something that overvolted or reverse polarized them. ground and 12v were both exposed, so shorting that could have given them -7V. I try not to leave things exposed like that when working. I tricked myself by thinking it was okay to leave ground exposed, then working on 12V leaving it briefly exposed, while it was powered. two mistakes at once.
when the device is oscillating, making its noise, the relay only gets about 30mV DC measured by my multimeter, compared to the 12V DC wired in. so it's time to replace the relays, and be more careful. there is a good chance the optoisolator here broke, but not the relays themselves.
I've wired the working relay board. This one has a removable jumper bridging 5V before and after the optoisolator. The relays click when powered, but the motor isn't turning. First thing to check is the connections and voltages to it.
I'm having trouble continuing. When I attempt to, my muscles are contracting, and I experience a strong sense of itching.
I've resumed working. My multimeter has alligator clips, which I have clipped to jumper wires. It's hard to measure the motor voltages, possibly relating to carefully insulating things this time. It could help to clip to something else than jumper wires, not sure. I could also set the relay on, and measure by holding. This might work.
I'm not measuring voltage on the 12v wire going to the relays. That's thing-to-address 1.
I might be misleading myself in some way. 12v seems to be working. When I measure vs ground on the psu, I get 12v by the motor. But I don't when I measure from nearer grounds. This is strange, because the 5v circuit was running fine. I'm likely making errors with my hands confounding the attempt to narrow down the issue.
I reseated a cable and tested things again, being careful. It turns out the multimeter is sometimes giving a bit of a delay before showing the 12v voltages, showing 0 while the wire touches 12v for half a second or so. Anyway, the motor turns now! I have not yet reversed it to unwind the cord, taped the relays back on, nor labeled the other board as broken. I get the impression it might be nice to have test points of some sort to debug stuff. I have some wire-in voltmeters from another project. Not sure.
It turns I ran the cable poorly. It's affixed with the motor base, then goes onto the "spool", so when it turns it pulls on itself. This arrangement would work better with a pulley setup where the load is at the midpoint of the cord. Alternatively I could tie the cord to the "spool" straight.
it basically works, but not enough to use. roughly, I tried to do it all use one length of cord, so it's hard to adjust things to improve it. it helps if the incoming cord doesn't travel too high or low, slipping off the coathanger, but if this is done by a loop of rope hanging too close to the coathanger, it can bend as its load increases, and begin twining into the loop. it seems like it might help the most to prevent it from bending too far. I have a loop I was using to do this, but i'm not certain how to have it handle all the scenarios. it seems it would at least help to cut the cord so as to move parts around.
it's working a little better now. when it breaks I have some ideas of what to improve. one of my tricks is tying some cord with a little slack to the end of the coathanger to hold it in place. this gets twisted but reduces the bending of the coathanger, and doesn't slip off.
so: mark the broken relays as broken add voltmeter displays to the motor side of the relays tape the relays onto the motor put away tools etc no longer being used
having trouble continuing. just kind of seem to keep sitting here when I try to stand up. maybe i've accomplished so much, the remaining parts are less important.
so I had put it together mostly I made a harness for my shoulders out of the cord (two large loops) while asleep, it seems I somehow pulled the control wires out from the button, and removed half the harness from my body I think the original plan would likely have resulted in using a timer and a sensor. Only a timer might suffice.
it is so wonderful that i was able to meet this years-long goal of connecting a motor to my sleeping situation to help me out of bed. i did not fully perform the goal: i did not rig the motor to a bed itself, nor to a timer, to get me out of bed. i am so impressed i did as much as i did, that i just feel great about having done it. my difficulties getting out of bed changed to a slightly different nature after setting up the motor, and i don't actually use it. i'm confused on where i am sleeping nowadays to move forward on rigging it to something i rest on. i sleep different places, on property i don't own. i'd like to get the muse headband going, like i got this impossible task going successfully.
participants (2)
-
Undiscussed Groomed for Male Slavery, One Victim of Many -
Undiscussed Horrific Abuse, One Victim of Many